Active Ingredients

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a class of chemical compounds frequently used in cosmetics and dermatology. AHAs are organic acids composed of a carboxylic group substituted with a hydroxyl group on the adjacent carbon. AHAs can occur naturally as the acidic component of many botanical substances like fruits, but they can also be produced synthetically. Common examples include lactic acid, citric acid, or glycolic acid.

Names and sources of commonly used AHAs:

• Lactic acid: Dairy products

• Citric acid: Citrus fruits

• Mandelic acid: Bitter almonds

• Glycolic acid: Sugarcane

• Tartaric acid: Fermented grapes

• Ascorbic acid: Fruits

• Malic acid: Apples

The indications for AHA-containing products range from moisturizing the skin to reducing wrinkles, and most importantly, deep chemical peeling of the skin. AHAs in acne treatment and prevention: Acne arises when pores become clogged with dead skin cells, oil (sebum), or bacteria. Peeling with AHAs helps loosen and clear these blockages. Continuous use can also prevent future blockages. AHAs also help reduce the size of enlarged pores, which are commonly seen in acne-prone skin. The skin cell turnover effect from exfoliating glycolic and lactic acids reduces acne scars. Anti-aging effect of AHAs: Studies have observed a reduction in rough texture and wrinkles, as well as an increase in epidermal thickening and dermal collagen thickness, following the use of Alpha Hydroxy Acids. Skin discoloration: AHAs have been shown to support smoother skin formation and simultaneously reduce skin tone unevenness.

Source:

• Improving the cosmetic appearance of photoaged skin with glycolic acid. J Am Acad Dermatol 1997; 36: 1011–3.

• Fruit acid facial scrubs. Dermatological and esthetic correction with alpha‐hydroxy acids (AHA). Hautarzt 1999; 50: 448–60.

• Alpha hydroxy acids in skin care. Clin Plast Surg 1996; 23: 49–56. • Comparison of alpha‐ and beta‐hydroxy acid chemical peels in the treatment of mild to moderately severe facial acne vulgaris. Dermatol Surg 2008; 34: 45–50; discussion 1.

• Efficacy of an alpha‐hydroxy acid (AHA)‐based cream, even in mo‐notherapy, in patients with mild‐moderate acne. G Ital Dermatol Venereol 2010; 145: 319–22.

• Clinical improvement of photoaged skin with 50% glycolic acid. A double‐blind vehicle‐controlled study. Dermatol Surg 1996; 22: 455–60.

• Treatment of photoaging – A personal comment and open study of the use of glycolic acid. J Dermatolog Treat 1993; 4: 215–8.

• Effects of alpha‐hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructu‐ral study. J Am Acad Dermatol1996; 34: 187–95

Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA) are the two main classes of hydroxy acids. While both Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) act as exfoliants, BHAs have also been observed to be effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improving overall skin texture. They are also used in the treatment of various skin conditions such as acne scars, blemishes, pigmentation, dry skin, and wrinkles. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid are very similar to AHAs, with the exception of differences in their solubility. Another notable characteristic is that BHAs are lipid-soluble, in contrast to the water solubility of AHAs. These properties make it easier for them to penetrate the skin through oil follicles, making them more suitable for patients with oily skin and open comedones. In addition to the proven anti-inflammatory effect of BHAs (e.g., Salicylic acid), their skin irritant effect has also been proven to be less than that of AHAs.

Arbutin is one of the most widely recommended skin-lightening and depigmenting agents worldwide. Due to its structure, arbutin has activities that inhibit melanin formation, which can be useful in treating hyperpigmentation, making it a recommended ingredient in treatments for uneven skin tone. Arbutin is largely derived from the bearberry plant but is also found in small amounts in the leaves of pear, cranberry, and blueberry trees, as well as in wheat, where it inhibits melanin production. Why is arbutin important? Basically, brown or dark spots on the skin are formed by pigments called melanin, produced by melanocyte cells containing tyrosinase enzymes. Melanin causes skin discoloration, and it is actually the skin's defense mechanism against the sun and other factors, creating permanent or temporary spots on the skin during this defense. These pigments can become active whenever they come into contact with UV rays, which is why excessive sun exposure is a significant cause of spot formation or the appearance of freckles. Besides the sun, acne, hormones, incorrectly used cosmetics, or medications can also contribute to the formation of skin spots. When applied topically, arbutin prevents melanin formation by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme. Thanks to this property, it is used as a skin brightener and an anti-dark spot agent.

Key features of Arbutin;

• Reduces sun-induced darkening of spots by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme.

• Has a lower likelihood of irritating the skin compared to many other anti-spot active ingredients.

• Can be easily incorporated into a skincare routine because it is compatible with other active ingredients.

• Also highly effective on acne scars.

Source:

• The significance of arbutin and its derivatives in therapy and cosmetics, Phytochemistry Letters, Volume 13, September 2015, Pages 35-40 

• Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available?, 2013 Jan-Mar; 6(1): 4–11.

• Natural Resources Containing Arbutin. Determination of Arbutin in the Leaves of Bergenia crassifolia, 129–132. Archived from the original on 2011-08-23.

• Skin Lightening Preparations and the Hydroquinone Controversy, Sep-Oct 2007;20(5):308-13.

Vitamin C can help protect the skin from many problems such as sunburn, photoaging, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, sagging, dryness, and uneven skin tone. Due to its antioxidant properties, Vitamin C helps your skin's natural regeneration process and contributes to the repair of damaged skin cells.

Benefits of Vitamin C for the Skin:

• Neutralizes and cleanses free radicals, minimizing the visible effects of environmental stress on the skin.

• Increases the production of barrier lipids and supports the skin's moisture barrier.

• Helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles, providing firmer and more elastic skin.

• Brightens the skin by reducing melanin production and minimizes the appearance of dark spots.

• Increases skin cell regeneration and clears dead and damaged skin.

• Increases collagen production.

Source:

• Role of Vitamin C in Skin Diseases. Frontiers in Physiology, 9.201

• Topical Activity of Ascorbic Acid: From in vitro Optimization to in vivo Efficacy. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 17(4),pp.200-206.2004

• Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 9(1), pp.22-27.2010

Zinc PCA is the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. It provides acne control by reducing sebum secretion and also helps the skin maintain its moisture. Thanks to their structure, zinc metal salts dry up inflammation caused by acne, reduce sebum secretion, and control the activity of sebaceous glands. It has a simple molecular structure, is naturally produced by our body, and is one of the "natural moisturizing factor" components that our skin produces to slow down water loss. How does Zinc PCA work? Zinc PCA helps fight viruses and bacteria. Zinc also has anti-inflammatory properties. This helps relieve redness and irritation associated with moderate to severe acne.

Zinc is also recommended for other inflammatory skin conditions, including:

• Melasma

• Rosacea

• Seborrheic dermatitis

• Eczema

Zinc Treatment in Dermatology:

Zinc (salts) in its basic or various forms has been used as a therapeutic method for centuries. Topical preparations such as zinc oxide, calamine, or zinc pyrithione are used in serums and creams as active ingredients for photo-protection (sun protection) and skin soothing agents. Its use has been recognized over the years for a number of dermatological conditions, including infections (warts, leishmaniasis), inflammatory dermatoses (acne vulgaris, rosacea), pigment disorders (melasma), and neoplasias (basal cell carcinoma). Zinc, in this form, is a mineral that regulates sebum production, reduces redness and irritation, and thus helps in the treatment of acne-prone skin. Recent research shows the fantastic role of zinc in preventing premature aging of the skin, as well as restricting the development of pathogenic microorganisms on the skin.

Source:

• Zinc l-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34:23-28. 2012

• Zinc salts inhibit in vitro toll-like receptor 2 surface expression by keratinocytes European Journal of Dermatology 17: 492-496.2007

• Zinc in skin pathology and care. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2006), 17(4), 205-210. 2006

• Zinc Therapy in Dermatology, 2014 Jul 10

Glycolic acid is one of the chemical exfoliants in the Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) family. It helps improve the overall appearance of the skin by improving its tone and texture. It provides a more vibrant, smooth, and youthful-looking skin texture. Glycolic acid, thanks to its small molecular structure, can easily penetrate the skin's layers and is also expert at shedding dead cells and removing excess sebum from the skin.

Key benefits of glycolic acid:

• Helps reduce hyperpigmentation and contributes to balancing skin tone.

• Supports collagen production, aiding in the reduction of fine lines and deep wrinkles.

• Contributes to the removal of dead cells from the skin, helping it appear more vibrant and smooth.

• Helps cleanse pores of oil, dirt, and dead cells, effectively reducing the appearance of pores. Since glycolic acid has a peeling effect on the skin, it can make the skin vulnerable to UV rays. Therefore, sunscreen must be used after application and on subsequent days. It is suitable for all skin types except sensitive skin.

Source:

• The Effect of Glycolic Acid on the Treatment of Acne in Asian Skin, 19 June 2013, Citations: 25

• Glycolic Acid Treatment Increases Type I Collagen mRNA and Hyaluronic Acid Content of Human Skin, 20 December 2001, Citations: 21

Hyaluronic acid (HA) plays a versatile role in regulating various biological processes such as skin repair, wound healing, tissue regeneration, and anti-inflammation. Due to its exceptional biomedical and tissue regeneration potential, HA is an indispensable active ingredient in dermo-cosmetic products. The improved skin hydration offered by hyaluronic acid is achieved through collagen and elastin stimulation and skin surface restoration. Hymagic-4D, a combination of four types of Hyaluronic Acid with different properties, creates a three-dimensional network by targeting different layers of the skin to retain and provide moisture to the skin. In this way, the skin is fully moisturized, and this directly increases the elasticity of the skin.

Hyaluronic Acid 3-dimensional effect technology;

1. Three-dimensional network structure; Hymagic-4D forms a three-dimensional network to retain skin moisture. 2. Accurately targeting different layers of the skin; When Hymagic-4D is applied to the skin, it targets different layers of the skin such as the skin surface, cuticle, epidermis, and dermis, thereby providing immediate three-dimensional moisturizing efficacy, providing moisture from the outside and retaining moisture.

4 Different Hyaluronic Acids combined;

• Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, forms a protective dense film on the skin surface, reducing water loss, also providing 24-hour hydration and anti-pollution/anti-UV capabilities.

• Sodium Hyaluronate, retains moisture by holding water on the skin surface and nourishes the skin surface.

• Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, adheres tightly to the skin surface layer and provides excellent hydration and repair of damaged skin.

• Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, rapidly penetrates the epidermis and dermis, moisturizing the skin from within and restoring lost moisture.

3. Three-dimensional moisturizing; The results of dermatological tests show that after 1 hour of application, Hymagic-4D application increased skin hydration by 155.1% and decreased skin TEWL (transepidermal water loss) by 32.3%. Hymagic-4D can provide immediate three-dimensional moisturizing efficacy to continuously moisturize the skin. It increases skin moisture from within and makes the skin smooth and elastic.

Source:

• International journal of biological macromolecules, 120(Pt B) · September 2018.

Caffeine is a powerful antioxidant known for its anti-aging benefits. As a vasoconstrictor, caffeine works by constricting blood vessels, helping to reduce inflammation and puffiness. It also tightens and brightens the skin, reduces wrinkles, and visibly diminishes cellulite in the body.

Benefits of Caffeine:

• Reduces Swelling: Caffeine is a great topical agent for improving swelling and enhancing circulation in the skin, making it considered a vital ingredient for under-eye puffiness.

• Contains Antioxidants: By using products that contain antioxidants, such as those found in caffeine, you can limit the amount of free radicals your body produces, which prevents the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.

• Helps Collagen Production: Caffeine aids in the production of collagen and elastin through the amino acids it contains.

• Reduces Cellulite: Caffeine is a main ingredient in cellulite creams and is formulated with ingredients that increase blood flow to stimulate the removal of fatty acids from the fat layer.

Source:

• Skin pharmacology and physiology 26(1):8-14 · January 2013

• Does Caffeine Really Make a Difference in Skincare Products?. April 16, 2020

Niacinamide is one of the most common and widely used ingredients in the cosmetics and dermocosmetics industries, a topic of great curiosity for everyone. What makes this ingredient so special? Why do brands and users strive to learn more about it every day? What is niacinamide? Also known as nicotinamide, niacinamide is a form of active niacin, a vitamin B3 and an essential nutrient. Vitamin B3 deficiency can lead to skin problems. Niacinamide helps prevent Vitamin B3 deficiency. Vitamin B3 also plays an important role in digestion and mental health and supports the function of over 200 enzymes in the body.

Why is Niacinamide Important?

The topical (skin use) form of niacinamide has a wide range of skincare benefits. These can be listed as follows. Benefits of niacinamide for the skin:

• Lipid barrier: Niacinamide helps your skin develop a ceramide (lipid) barrier, which in turn helps the skin retain moisture. This is beneficial for all skin types, especially individuals with eczema or mature skin.

• Minimizes redness and blemishes: Niacinamide helps alleviate redness by reducing inflammation in eczema, acne, and other inflammatory skin conditions.

• Minimizes pore appearance: It keeps the skin smooth and hydrated, which leads to a natural reduction in pore size over time.

• Regulates skin oil production: The benefits of moisture retention are not just for those with dry skin types. Niacinamide also helps regulate the amount of oil produced by the sebaceous glands and prevents excessive sebum production.

• Protects against sun damage: Niacinamide also helps healthy cells regenerate and protects them from damage caused by ultraviolet rays.

• Treats hyperpigmentation (skin discoloration): Research has found that niacinamide content can help lighten dark spots. Benefits were observed after four weeks. This is due to increased collagen production.

• Minimizes fine lines and wrinkles: Niacinamide helps reduce some signs of sun damage, including fine lines and wrinkles.

• Protects against stress-induced cell damage: While niacinamide helps in the creation of skin cells, it also protects against environmental factors such as sunlight, pollution, and toxins.

• Treats acne: After using niacinamide, you may see fewer lesions and improved skin texture over time. Niacinamide balances the oil content in the skin by controlling the production of sebum (naturally produced oil to protect and moisturize the skin), which causes blackheads, pimples, and blemishes associated with acne.

• Brightens the skin: Niacinamide reduces skin color (pigmentation) by impairing the effect of one of the key enzymes necessary for melanin production, which is produced by the skin in response to harmful sunlight and causes skin darkening and pigmentation.

Source:

• Everything you need to know about using niacinamide on your skin, CBC Life, March 14, 2019.

• Niacinamide, Breast Cancer website sources, Therapeutic Research Faculty, publishers of Natural Medicines, Prescriber's Letter, and Pharmacist's Letter.

• Gehring W, Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin, J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004 Apr;3(2):88-93.

• The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production, J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006 Jun;8(2):96-101.

Panthenol is an active ingredient used in dermatology to maintain skin health, moisturize and soften the skin surface, and repair the barrier.

The importance of Panthenol (B5) in Skincare;

• Panthenol is easily absorbed by the skin and shows its effect due to its rapid penetration feature. • As panthenol is absorbed into the skin, it also improves the appearance of the skin by filling wrinkles and cracks with water.

• Thanks to panthenol's water-retaining property, it helps the skin to have a more beautiful and softer appearance by drawing moisture to the skin.

How do we meet our Vitamin B5 needs?

The best sources of vitamin B5 include fish, meat, whole grains, milk, eggs, avocado, mushrooms, peanuts, and legumes. However, a large amount must be consumed for it to benefit the skin. For this reason, the skin's vitamin B5 needs should be partially met by the cosmetic products you use.

What does Vitamin B5 do?

• It is a powerful moisturizer. It is used for intense moisturizing of hair, nails, and skin. It provides its moisturizing effect by both drawing water to the skin from the outside and retaining it; it acts like a sponge.

• It increases skin elasticity. It shows an anti-aging effect by stimulating collagen production. It supports the formation of plumper and younger skin.

• It plays a role in the development of the skin's protective barrier function by increasing the synthesis of lipids in the outermost layer of the skin.

Source:

• In Vivo Efficacy and Properties of Semisolid Formulations Containing Panthenol, 2019 Feb;18(1):346-354. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12527. Epub 2018 Mar 25

• Panthenol, National library of medicine.

• Design, Optimization and Characterization of Coenzyme Q10- And D-panthenyl Triacetate-Loaded Liposom, 2017 July 7.

Azelaic acid (COOH-(CH2 )7 - COOH) is a medium-chain saturated, 9-carbon dicarboxylic acid that has recently been shown to have significant biological activities and some beneficial practical therapeutic applications. It is a type of acid naturally found in grains such as barley, wheat, and rye. It is an acid with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a gentler exfoliant compared to other acids, making it suitable for sensitive skin. Azelaic acid, which helps to improve skin tone and texture, is especially preferred in the treatment of acne and rosacea. It reduces the presence of bacteria that cause acne and inflammation, and treats redness and uneven skin tone problems. Additionally, it reduces keratin production, which can help limit skin cracks.

• Helps reduce acne problems. Azelaic acid exhibits bacteriostatic and bactericidal properties against various aerobic and anaerobic microorganisms found in acne-prone skin. It is a preferred type of acid for cystic acne. With its anti-inflammatory effect, it helps lighten blemishes over time, making them less visible. It accelerates the equalization of skin tone by increasing cell renewal.

• Treats the appearance of redness on the skin. Thanks to its content, it regulates the normal growth process of cells. It is effective in reversing the red appearance caused by conditions such as rosacea, which result from vasodilation.

• Has a peeling effect. With regular use, it provides a smooth appearance by creating a peeling effect on the skin. Reduces the appearance of enlarged pores.

• Reduces the signs of aging. Because it contains reactive oxygen species, it provides a younger and healthier-looking skin by evening out skin blemishes and tone.

Deep cleansing aims to achieve cellular renewal, prevent acne, and cleanse pores through sebum control and exfoliation. Additionally, it reduces wrinkles and provides a smooth and radiant appearance by stimulating collagen production.

Ferulic acid is an antioxidant-rich active that fights aging, fine lines, wrinkles, discoloration, and damaged skin cells. Ferulic acid is easily absorbed by the skin and is a successful active ingredient when it comes to fighting free radicals and preventing cell damage. Ferulic Acid continues to protect against the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays and provide high levels of hydration after skincare. With its antioxidant properties, it accelerates cell repair and lightens photodamage, congenital spots, sun spots, freckles, and dark spots that are about to become permanent. With its natural whitening effect, it provides a dazzling, flawless complexion. It helps prevent the formation of signs of aging and expression lines. Since Ferulic Acid contains abundant Vitamin C in its structure, it plays a major role in firming the skin. It is very effective in collagen formation and accelerates blood circulation.

Tasmannia lanceolata, commonly known as Tasmanian Pepperberry or Mountain Pepper, is a shrub native to the temperate rainforests and woodlands of southeastern Australia. Tasmanian Pepperberry is the fruit of the Tasmannia lanceolata tree, which has a delicious peppery taste and aroma with a combination of woody sweetness and herbal notes. It is considered a superfood for the skin as it is rich in antioxidants that revitalize and rejuvenate the skin, treating dry, itchy, and inflamed skin. The botanical active derived from Tasmanian pepper is a water-soluble (and alcohol-soluble) anti-inflammatory active ingredient. It has a soothing effect in cases of sensitivity such as irritation, burning, stinging, and itching. It acts immediately on skin redness, making the skin more comfortable.

Centella Asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola, is native to Indonesia, China, India, and Southeast Asia. Perhaps the most important feature of this special plant, which is a rich source of amino acids, flavonoids, phytosterols, and fatty acids, when used as a skincare product, is its ability to help heal wounds, acne, and blemishes. Gotu kola accelerates blood circulation in the affected area by increasing blood flow in skin dealing with such problems. In this way, the skin, with its increased oxygenation, both renews and strengthens itself. We can summarize its benefits as follows:

• The combination of amino acids, fatty acids, beta-carotene, and phytochemicals in its content speeds up the healing time in the treatment of skin blemishes, acne scars, burns, and wounds.

• It strengthens the skin by increasing antioxidants in the problematic area of the skin.

• It helps the skin maintain its elasticity by accelerating blood circulation.

• Thanks to its ability to form collagen fibers and elastin, it delays skin aging, helps reduce wrinkles and stretch marks, and supports the strengthening of hair and nails.

• It contributes to the reduction of skin redness and dryness.

• It improves the skin's epidermal barrier function.

• It helps alleviate skin irritations.

A microalga that minimizes the appearance of aging after exposure to UV and blue light. It reduces skin damage caused by natural and artificial blue light sources and improves overall skin appearance. It functions as an anti-aging and sun-protective agent. It protects against UV and blue light-induced skin damage. It stimulates Collagen III production and reduces the number of sunburn cells and oxidative stress. Additionally, it improves the overall skin appearance and provides a beautiful complexion. It contains amino acids, vitamins (B3), algal saccharides, and minerals (Zn). It instantly and powerfully reduces hyperpigmentation and irritation in the skin after blue light exposure and restores an even skin tone. It is used in the formulation of day, sun, after-sun, and regenerating night care products.

• In vitro:

• stimulates total collagen by up to 34% to reduce the visible signs of sun-induced aging

• protects fibroblasts (up to 50%) from UV stress and restores fibroblast functionality (up to 200%) after UV stress

• reduces the number of sunburned cells against UVA by 63%

• In vivo:

• proven to be highly effective against hyperpigmentation:

• Immediate reduction in skin pigment darkening (-30%)

• Faster rebalancing to normal skin pigmentation and restoring even skin tone

• Reduction of blue light-induced skin redness

• Ex vivo:

• Reduces blue light-induced free radicals by up to 35%.

• Reduces blue light-induced carbonylated proteins by up to 61%.

• Increases Collagen III production by 29%.

It has a preventive effect on the formation of dynamic wrinkles. It helps regenerate the skin by stimulating collagen production. It helps moisturize the skin.

Retinol is the most commonly used form in dermocosmetic products. To be effective, it first converts to retinal, then to retinoic acid. The reason all retinoids convert to retinoic acid is that only retinoic acid can bind to the relevant receptors.

It improves the appearance of wrinkles by increasing the amount of GAG and collagen.

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, belongs to the group of retinoids that increase collagen production in the skin. Because it stimulates the skin to produce new cells, when added to a skincare routine, it offers powerful anti-aging effects, from reducing the appearance of wrinkles to firming the skin.

Retinol, which also plays an important role in acne treatment and provides solutions for almost every skin problem, helps to tighten pores, brighten and even out skin tone, reduce the appearance of dark spots, and control hyperpigmentation. It also acts as an antioxidant, fighting free radical damage, which is one of the causes of signs of aging in the skin.

Points to Consider When Using:

• Since vitamin A is highly unstable, it can lose its effectiveness upon contact with light and air. It should be stored in an airtight, dark-colored container.

• It should only be applied in the evenings as it can cause photosensitivity.

• It should always be used with moisturizers as it can cause dryness and irritation on the skin.

• Start with a low percentage.

• It is contraindicated in pregnancy.

• It is expected to show effects after an average of 8-12 weeks.

Products containing exfoliating acids such as alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), beta hydroxy acid (BHA), and polyhydroxy acid (PHA) will increase skin sensitivity, so these acids should be paused when using retinol.

Source: 

• The role of topical retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Drugs. 2005;65(8):1061-72. 

• Retinoids in aging. Clin Dermatol. Mar-Apr 1996;14(2):207-15. 

• Cosmeceuticals: the evidence behind the retinoids. Aesthet Surg J. 2010 Jan;30(1):74-7.

• Bikowski JB. Mechanisms of the comedolytic and anti-inflammatory properties of topical retinoids. J Drugs Dermatol. 2005 Jan-Feb;4(1):41-7. 

Acmella oleracea, scientifically known as Spilanthes oleracea, is a plant of the Asteraceae family (Compositae) native to South America, growing spontaneously in all humid parts of the world, especially in Brazil, Peru, and tropical Africa. It is common in Australia, India, Malaysia, and Sri Lanka and is widely used in traditional medicine for the treatment of various ailments and conditions.

It has a tightening effect, acting as a natural facelift for the face while improving the appearance of the skin. Its small yellow-red, almost flaky flowers, contain 1.25% Spilanthol. It is a plant-based alkaloid. It is preferred for its firming and anti-wrinkle properties.

Bilberry, which can be grown in acidic and organic matter-rich microclimate areas worldwide, belongs to the Vaccinium genus within the Ericaceae (heath) family. In some sources, it is also known as "European Blueberry." Bilberry cultivation is carried out in thousands of hectares in some European countries, especially in the USA. Its cultivation in our country started in Rize in the 2000s.

Due to its abundant phenolic compounds, it has been used in the treatment of many ailments. Fruit and leaf extracts are used in skincare for their antioxidant and anti-aging effects.

It is a good source of anthocyanins. So, what are anthocyanins?

Anthocyanins strengthen the skin's defense against environmental stressors (such as harmful UV rays), which helps reduce the onset of wrinkles, dark spots, and other signs of aging.

Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract has also been proven to offer soothing properties, especially beneficial for problematic or sensitive skin.

Another beneficial property is that the antioxidant property of Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract is understood to be not only for the skin but also to have protective and stabilizing properties in certain mixtures in the formulation.

Source:

• International Journal of Food Sciences, August 2014, pages 594-601

• Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, March 2014, pages 27-35

• Pharmacognosy Research, July-September 2011, pages 173-177

• Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects 2nd edition, 2011, chapter four

• Biofactors, January 2008, pages 249-266

• G, Göktaş, Determination of phenolic compounds of bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus/Vaccinium corymbosum) by LC-MS/MS, (2013).

Octinoxate is also known as Octyl Methoxycinnamate. It is one of the most commonly used, oil-soluble chemical sun filters. It is highly preferred in cosmetics due to its elegant application. It absorbs UVB radiation between 280-320 nm and provides maximum protection at 310nm.

It does not provide protection against UVA rays, so it should be supported by other filters. It is also not very stable. When exposed to sunlight, it loses 10% of its SPF protection capability within 35 minutes.

It is allowed for use up to 10% in the EU and up to 7.5% in America. For this reason, it is classified as "Safe as used."

In vitro studies have shown that it can produce hormonal (estrogen-like) effects. There is no need to panic at this point, as the studies have not been conducted on real people and under real-life conditions. Therefore, completely avoiding Octinoxate is also unnecessary. However, if you are pregnant or a child under 2 years old, you can choose a physical (zinc oxide/titanium dioxide) or a next-generation filter sunscreen to be on the super safe side. :)

Source:

• Couteau, C., et al. "Study of the efficacy of 18 sun filters authorized in European Union tested in vitro." Die Pharmazie-An International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 62.6 (2007): 449-452.

• Couteau, Céline, et al. "Study of the photostability of 18 sunscreens in creams by measuring the SPF in vitro." Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis 44.1 (2007): 270-273.

• Chatelain, Eric, and Bernard Gabard. "Photostabilization of Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), a New UV Broadband Filter." Photochemistry and Photobiology 74.3 (2001): 401-406.

• Janjua, Nadeem Rezaq, et al. "Systemic absorption of the sunscreens benzophenone-3, octyl-methoxycinnamate, and 3-(4-methyl-benzylidene) camphor after whole-body topical application and reproductive hormone levels in humans." Journal of Investigative Dermatology 123.1 (2004): 57-61.

• Schlumpf, Margret, et al. "In vitro and in vivo estrogenicity of UV screens." Environmental health perspectives 109.3 (2001): 239.

Uvinul A Plus, also known as DHHB, is a new-generation chemical sunscreen agent designed for high UVA protection and high photostability. It can be used up to 10% worldwide, except in the USA and Canada.

It has the same effect as Avobenzone. However, DHHB's stability in sunlight is much better than Avobenzone, as Avobenzone's ability to absorb ultraviolet radiation will rapidly decrease in sunlight. Therefore, to reduce Avobenzone loss, you need to add another UV absorber as a light stabilizer to the formula. This is not necessary with DHHB.

Source:

•https://haihangchem.com/products/diethylamino-hydroxybenzoyl-hexyl-benzoate-cas-302776-68-7/?gclid=CjwKCAjwtIaVBhBkEiwAsr7-c8P_qfQyp2HD6xPCpi11synM6PsCSwatvvPvR9u1oBk4BDayN9y9mhoCsCYQAvD_BwE

•https://www.cosdna.com/eng/981df410268.html

•https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/diethylamino-hydroxybenzoyl-hexyl-benzoate

•https://cosmetics.specialchem.com/product/i-basf-uvinul-a-plus-granular

It is an oil-soluble chemical sunscreen agent that reaches a peak absorption of 304 nm; it protects the skin in the UVB and also somewhat in the UVA II range. Its protection is not strong enough on its own, but it is highly photostable (loses 10% of its SPF protection in 95 minutes) and is often used to stabilize other photo-unstable UV filters like Avobenzone.

It is also frequently used to increase the water resistance of products.

The safety profile of Octocrylene is generally quite good, but a review study in Contact Dermatitis reports an "increase in the number of patients with photocontact allergy to octocrylene." Mainly adults with ketoprofen sensitivity and children with sensitive skin are more affected, so if you have a young child, it is advisable to be cautious when using sunscreens containing octocrylene.

Source:

• Couteau, C., et al. "Study of the efficacy of 18 sun filters authorized in European Union tested in vitro." Die Pharmazie-An International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 62.6 (2007): 449-452.

• Couteau, Céline, et al. "Study of the photostability of 18 sunscreens in creams by measuring the SPF in vitro." Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis 44.1 (2007): 270-273.

• Scalia, Santo, and Matteo Mezzena. "Incorporation in lipid microparticles of the UVA filter, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane combined with the UVB filter, octocrylene: effect on photostability." AAPS PharmSciTech 10.2 (2009): 384-390.

• de Groot, Anton C., and David W. Roberts. "Contact and photocontact allergy to octocrylene: a review." Contact dermatitis 70.4 (2014): 193-204.

It is an inorganic/physical sunscreen filter. According to a 2016 study, inorganic sun filters work primarily by absorption and only slightly by reflection, much like chemical filters (they reflect light in the visible spectrum but mostly absorb it in the UV spectrum).

In cosmetics, in addition to its sun protection properties, it is also used as a thickening, opacifying, and pigment-giving agent.

It provides excellent broad-spectrum coverage and is quite stable. Its protection is very good between 290 - 350 nm (UVB and UVA II range) and less effective in the 350-400 nm (UVA I) range. For this reason, it would be better to choose sunscreens containing titanium dioxide along with filters that provide high UVA I protection. Titanium dioxide with normal molecular size also has an excellent safety profile, is non-irritating, and poses no health concerns.

The disadvantage of titanium dioxide is its inelegant cosmetic application. Sunscreens containing titanium dioxide are often difficult to spread on the skin and leave an unpleasant whitish cast. The best solution the cosmetic industry has found to date for this situation is to use nanoparticles. Small nano-sized particles improve spreadability and significantly reduce the whitish tone, but unfortunately, it has been thought that they might also bring new health concerns.

According to research, the main concern with nanoparticles is that they are so small that they are absorbed by the skin more than desired (ideally, sunscreen should remain on the skin's surface). Once absorbed, they can form unwanted complexes with proteins and promote the formation of harmful free radicals. However, a 2009 article on the safety of nanoparticles states that "to date, in-vivo and in-vitro studies have not shown percutaneous penetration of nano-sized particles in titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sunscreens." This means that research conducted so far indicates that nanoparticle sunscreens remain where they should be, on the surface of the skin.

Furthermore, even when titanium dioxide nanoparticles are used, the molecular size of the material used to coat the nanoparticles is large enough to prevent them from passing beyond the outermost layers of the skin. This means you get the sun protection provided by titanium dioxide without the risk of harm to your skin or body. The coating process improves application, enhances sun protection, and prevents titanium dioxide from interacting with other ingredients in the presence of sunlight, thereby increasing its stability.

Source:

• Newman, Marissa D., Mira Stotland, and Jeffrey I. Ellis. "The safety of nanosized particles in titanium dioxide–and zinc oxide–based sunscreens." Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 61.4 (2009): 685-692.

• Monteiro-Riviere, N. A., et al. "Safety evaluation of sunscreen formulations containing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in UVB sunburned skin: an in vitro and in vivo study." Toxicological Sciences (2011): kfr148.

• Cole, Curtis, Thomas Shyr, and Hao Ou‐Yang. "Metal oxide sunscreens protect skin by absorption, not by reflection or scattering." Photodermatology, photoimmunology & photomedicine 32.1 (2016): 5-10.

• Smijs, Threes G., and Stanislav Pavel. "Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreens: focus on their safety and effectiveness." Nanotechnol Sci Appl 4.1 (2011): 95-112.

•https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredients/ingredient-titanium-dioxide.html?q=Titanium%20Dioxide&fdid=ingredients

It is an inorganic/physical sunscreen filter. It provides almost equal protection against UVB, UVA II, and UVA I, and is considered the broadest-spectrum sun filter available today. It is permitted to be used in sunscreens at concentrations up to 25%.

It is also very stable and non-irritating. So much so that Zinc Oxide is also considered a skin protectant and anti-irritant. It is also commonly used to treat skin irritations such as diaper rash.

As for its disadvantages, the application of Zinc Oxide is not cosmetically elegant. According to a research article by Dr. Pinnell in 2000, although it is slightly less white than TiO2, it leaves an unpleasant whitish cast on the skin. This is where nanoparticles come into play. Research published in Investigative Dermatology revealed that zinc oxide nanoparticles do not penetrate the skin or damage it at a cellular level, even with repeated applications. Additional studies have found that nano-sized zinc oxide is non-irritating, similar to non-nano zinc oxide.

You can find more information about nanoparticles under the Titanium Dioxide heading J

Zinc oxide is sometimes used in makeup to add opacity to products like foundation, especially powder-based cosmetics.

Source:

• Pinnell, Sheldon R., et al. "Microfine zinc oxide is a superior sunscreen ingredient to microfine titanium dioxide." Dermatologic surgery 26.4 (2000): 309-314.

• Newman, Marissa D., Mira Stotland, and Jeffrey I. Ellis. "The safety of nanosized particles in titanium dioxide–and zinc oxide–based sunscreens." Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 61.4 (2009): 685-692.

• Monteiro-Riviere, N. A., et al. "Safety evaluation of sunscreen formulations containing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in UVB sunburned skin: an in vitro and in vivo study." Toxicological Sciences (2011): kfr148.

• Cole, Curtis, Thomas Shyr, and Hao Ou‐Yang. "Metal oxide sunscreens protect skin by absorption, not by reflection or scattering." Photodermatology, photoimmunology & photomedicine 32.1 (2016): 5-10.

• Smijs, Threes G., and Stanislav Pavel. "Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreens: focus on their safety and effectiveness." Nanotechnol Sci Appl 4.1 (2011): 95-112.

• Journal of Investigative Dermatology, February 2019, pages 277-278

• Nanomaterials, March 2017, pages 27-31

• Particle and Fibre Toxicology, August 2016, page 44

• International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 2014, pages 273-283

• Indian Journal of Dermatology, September-October 2012, pages 335-342

• Archives of Toxicology, July 2012, pages 1063-1075

• Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, & Photomedicine, April 2011, pages 58-67

• American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, December 2010, pages 413-421

•https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/zinc-oxide-0?gclid=CjwKCAjw3_KIBhA2EiwAaAAlipF1YpJBfZrmUbDnK6jm68_2f-GfsdZ770fVI15BFzZJtiFcCJjAWxoC3SkQAvD_BwE

It is known as shea butter. It is derived from the shea tree and used as an emollient in cosmetics.

Shea butter not only has a rich texture; it is also a rich source of antioxidants, including quercetin, epicatechin gallate, gallocatechin, epigallocatechin; vitamins A, E, F, as well as skin-renewing fatty acids (stearic and linoleic). It is one of the ingredients we want to see in products designed to improve dry skin.

Source:

• Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, June 2011, pages 45-55

• Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, October 2003, pages 6,268-6,273

• Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, February 2009, page S41

Vitamin C has three amazing proven effects: antioxidant, collagen booster, and skin brightener. However, the problem is that, due to its highly unstable nature, it oxidizes, turns brown, and becomes ineffective in a short period (after a few months).

For this reason, manufacturers have started to produce and test vitamin C in derivative forms as an alternative to pure vitamin C. Here, we will examine Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, known as 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate.

It is an "etherified derivative of ascorbic acid" consisting of vitamin C and an ethyl group attached to the third carbon position. This makes vitamin C very stable and soluble in both water and oil.

Because conversion to pure vitamin C is a slower process, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is considered a more tolerable form of vitamin C. The pH range required for optimum stability is higher than that needed for ascorbic acid for ideal stability, and EAC becomes an attractive alternative if your skin has not been able to tolerate higher concentrations (10% and above) of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) products.

The usage levels of EAC in skincare are between 0.5-5%. Levels above 5% can also be used depending on the desired benefit. Amounts up to 30% have been shown not to be irritating in human skin samples.

However, for a Vitamin C derivative to work, it is not enough for it to be stable; it also needs to be absorbed into the skin and converted there to pure Vitamin C. Regarding conversion, we can only mention a claim by manufacturers that EAC metabolizes into pure ascorbic acid in the skin, but according to some tests showing that it can penetrate the skin, it has been found to be better in this regard than another vitamin C derivative, Ascorbyl Glucoside.

It can fade hyperpigmentation and offers anti-aging benefits equal to pure vitamin C.

It has been suggested that EAC has both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects and is claimed to increase the skin's collagen production. The strong point of EAC is skin brightening. In addition to manufacturer claims, there is also clinical in-vivo data showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone and whiten the skin.

Source:

• Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Volume 11 (4) – Dec 1, 2012, Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives

• Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2021, pages 151–169

• Life, May 2021, pages 1–13

• International Journal of Pharmaceutics, December 2019, pages 1–9

• Journal of Cosmetic Science, July-August 2018, pages 233–243

• AAPS PharmSciTech, June 2016, pages 767–777

It's a super common, safe, effective, and inexpensive molecule that has been used for over 50 years.

It's also a natural moisturizer found in our skin. It's not just a simple moisturizer, it's much more: it keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, and helps regenerate the barrier.

A study in 2005 showed that glycerin levels are related to skin hydration levels, meaning more glycerin leads to better hydrated skin.

• Ensures that the sticky substance between skin cells is neither too diluted nor too concentrated (this is called osmoregulation)

• Helps maintain the healthy state of cell membranes and intracellular lipids (keeps lipids in a beautiful liquid crystal state optimal for barrier function)

• Can normalize skin flaking in very dry skin.

• Provides protection against skin irritation (such as washing your face too much and/or too aggressively)

While it offers even more benefits at higher concentrations, up to 20-40%, it is also effective at as low as 3%. Around 10% is a good usability-efficacy point. It is possible to formulate this amount into a relatively light, non-sticky, and not too heavy formula (yes, glycerin is sticky, and it's really difficult to formulate a high % into a cosmetically elegant formula), but 10% also shows all the great therapeutic effects.

100% pure glycerin is also not good for the skin. Too much glycerin (and humectants in general) can draw water from the lower layers of the skin. This creates a problem because once water enters the top layer, some of it will evaporate. This is called trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). If there is too much TEWL, the skin becomes dry.

This has also been confirmed by a study: skin treated with 99.7% glycerin for 5 days showed that the SC (the outermost layer of the skin) was not visibly different from the untreated control after treatment. The same study also examined skin treated with a 25% glycerin lotion, where the SC had a visibly different, expanded - in other words, more hydrated - appearance.

In conclusion: glycerin is much more than a simple moisturizer. It is an underappreciated superstar that deserves more attention.

Source:

• Leslie Baumann, MD, Cosmetic Dermatology, 2nd edition, Glycerin- pages 275

• The Journal of investigative dermatology., 2005 Aug;125(2):288-93., Is endogenous glycerol a determinant of stratum corneum hydration in humans?

• Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function, Marie Loden, Howard I. Maibach, chapter 20: Glycerol — Just a Moisturizer? Biological and Biophysical Effects