Active Ingredients

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a class of chemical compounds frequently used in cosmetics and dermatology. AHAs are organic acids consisting of a carboxylic group substituted by a hydroxyl group on the adjacent carbon. AHAs occur naturally as the acid component of many botanical substances such as fruits, but can also be produced synthetically. Common examples are lactic acid, citric acid, or glycolic acid.

Names and sources of commonly used AHAs:

• Lactic acid: Dairy products

• Citric acid: Citrus fruits

• Mandelic acid: Bitter almond

• Glycolic acid: Sugar cane

• Tartaric acid: Fermented grapes

• Ascorbic acid: Fruits

• Malic acid: Apple

The indications for AHA-containing products range from skin hydration to wrinkle reduction and, most importantly, deep chemical peeling of the skin. AHAs in acne treatment and prevention: Acne occurs when pores become clogged with dead skin cells, oil (sebum) or bacteria. Exfoliating with AHAs helps loosen and clear the blockage. Regular use can also prevent future blockages. AHAs also help reduce the size of enlarged pores, which are common in acne-prone skin. The skin cell turnover effect from exfoliating glycolic and lactic acids reduces acne scars. Anti-aging effect of AHAs: Studies have shown that after the use of Alpha Hydroxy Acids, a decrease in coarse texture and wrinkles, as well as an increase in epidermal thickening and dermal collagen thickness, have been observed. Skin color irregularities: It has been shown that AHAs support the formation of smoother skin and also reduce skin color inequalities.

Source:

• Improving the cosmetic appearance of photoaged skin with glycolic acid. J Am Acad Dermatol 1997; 36: 1011–3.

• Fruit acid facial scrubs. Dermatological and esthetic correction with alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA). Hautarzt 1999; 50:448–60.

• Alpha hydroxy acids in skin care. Clin Plast Surg 1996; 23:49–56. • Comparison of alpha‐ and beta‐hydroxy acid chemical peels in the treatment of mild to moderately severe facial acne vulgaris. Dermatol Surg 2008; 34:45–50; discussion 1.

• Efficacy of an alpha‐hydroxy acid (AHA)‐based cream, even in monotherapy, in patients with mild‐moderate acne. G Ital Dermatol Venereol 2010; 145: 319–22.

• Clinical improvement of photoaged skin with 50% glycolic acid. A double-blind vehicle-controlled study. Dermatol Surg 1996; 22: 455–60.

• Treatment of photoaging – A personal comment and open study of the use of glycolic acid. J Dermatologist Treat 1993; 4:215–8.

• Effects of alpha‐hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. J Am Acad Dermatol1996; 34:187–95

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are the two main classes of hydroxy acids. While both alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) act as exfoliants, BHAs have also been shown to be effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improving overall skin texture. They are also used to treat a variety of skin conditions, including acne scarring, scarring, pigmentation, dry skin, and wrinkles. Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, are very similar to AHAs except for the difference in their solubility. Another notable feature is that, unlike AHAs, which are water-soluble, BHAs are lipid-soluble. This property allows them to penetrate the skin through the sebaceous follicles, making them more suitable for patients with oily skin and open comedones. In addition to the proven anti-inflammatory effects of BHAs (e.g. salicylic acid), they have also been shown to be less skin-irritating than AHAs.

Arbutin is one of the most widely recommended skin lightening and pigmentation removal agents worldwide. Due to its structure, arbutin has activities that prevent melanin formation, which can be useful in the treatment of hyperpigmentation, and this makes it a recommended ingredient in skin tone inequality treatments. Arbutin is obtained in high amounts from the bearberry plant, but it is also found in small amounts in the leaves of pear, cranberry and blueberry trees, and in wheat, and it inhibits melanin production. Why is arbutin important? Basically, brown or dark spots on the skin are made up of pigments called melanin, produced by melanocyte cells containing tyrosinase enzymes. Melanin causes skin discoloration, and melanin is actually the skin's defense tool against the sun and other factors, and during this defense, it creates permanent or temporary spots on the skin. These pigments can be activated whenever they come into contact with UV rays, so being exposed to the sun too much is an important reason for the formation of spots or the appearance of freckles. We can say that acne, hormones, incorrectly used cosmetics or medications are as effective as the sun in the formation of skin spots. When applied topically, arbutin inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, preventing melanin formation. Thanks to this feature, it is used as a skin lightener and anti-dark spot treatment.

Important properties of Arbutin;

• It reduces sun-induced darkening of spots by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme.

• Unlikely to irritate the skin compared to many anti-blemish active ingredients.

•It can be easily incorporated into the skin care routine because it is compatible with other active ingredients.

• It is also very effective on acne scars.

Source:

• The significance of arbutin and its derivatives in therapy and cosmetics, Phytochemistry Letters, Volume 13, September 2015, Pages 35-40

• Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available?, 2013 Jan-Mar; 6(1): 4–11.

• Natural Resources Containing Arbutin. Determination of Arbutin in the Leaves of Bergenia crassifolia, 129–132. Archived from the original on 2011-08-23.

• Skin Lightening Preparations and the Hydroquinone Controversy, Sep-Oct 2007;20(5):308-13.

Vitamin C can help protect skin from many problems, including sunburn, photoaging, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, sagging, dryness, and uneven skin tone. Due to its antioxidant properties, vitamin C aids in your skin's natural renewal process and helps repair damaged skin cells.

Benefits of Vitamin C for Skin:

• Neutralizes and cleans free radicals and minimizes the visible effects of stress caused by environmental factors on the skin.

• Increases the production of barrier lipids and supports the skin's moisture barrier.

• Helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, providing firmer and more elastic skin.

• It brightens the skin by reducing melanin production and minimizes the appearance of dark spots.

• Increases skin cell renewal and cleans dead and damaged skin.

• Increases collagen production.

Source:

• Role of Vitamin C in Skin Diseases. Frontiers in Physiology, 9.201

• Topical Activity of Ascorbic Acid: From in vitro Optimization to in vivo Efficacy. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 17(4),pp.200-206.2004

• Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 9(1), pp.22-27.2010

Zinc PCA is the Zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. It controls acne by reducing sebum secretion and also helps the skin retain its moisture. Thanks to its structure, zinc metal salts dry out acne-related inflammation and also reduce sebum secretion and control the activity of the sebaceous glands. It has a simple molecular structure, is naturally produced by our body and is one of the components of the “natural moisturizing factor” that our skin produces to slow down water loss. How does Zinc PCA work? Zinc PCA helps fight viruses and bacteria. Zinc also has anti-inflammatory properties. This helps relieve the redness and irritation associated with moderate to severe acne.

Zinc is also recommended for other inflammatory skin conditions, including:

• Melasma

• Rosacea

• Seborrheic dermatitis

• Eczema

Zinc Therapy in Dermatology:

Zinc (salts), in its basic or various forms, has been used as a therapeutic modality for centuries. Topical preparations such as zinc oxide, calamine or zinc pyrithione are used in serums and creams as active ingredients in photoprotection (sun protection) and skin soothing agents. Its use has been recognized over the years for a number of dermatological conditions, including infections (warts, leishmaniasis), inflammatory dermatoses (acne vulgaris, rosacea), pigment disorders (melasma) and neoplasms (basal cell carcinoma). In this form, zinc is a mineral that regulates sebum production, reduces redness and irritation, and thus helps in the treatment of acne-prone skin. Recent studies show the fantastic role of zinc in preventing premature skin aging, as well as in restricting the development of pathogenic microorganisms on the skin.

Source:

• Zinc l-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34:23-28. 2012

• Zinc salts inhibit in vitro toll-like receptor 2 surface expression by keratinocytes European Journal of Dermatology 17: 492-496.2007

• Zinc in skin pathology and care. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2006), 17(4), 205-210. 2006

• Zinc Therapy in Dermatology, 2014 Jul 10

Glycolic acid is one of the chemical exfoliants in the Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) family. It helps improve the overall appearance of the skin by improving its tone and texture. It provides a more vibrant, smooth and youthful looking skin texture. Glycolic acid has the ability to easily penetrate the layers of the skin thanks to its small molecule structure and is also an expert in removing dead cells from the skin and removing excess sebum.

Key benefits of glycolic acid:

• Helps reduce hyperpigmentation and contributes to balancing skin tone.

• It supports the elimination of fine lines and deep wrinkles by supporting collagen production.

• It helps the skin look more vibrant and smooth by contributing to the removal of dead cells from the skin.

• It helps to cleanse pores from oil, dirt and dead cells and is effective in reducing the appearance of pores. Since glycolic acid has a peeling effect on the skin, it can cause the skin to become vulnerable to UV rays. For this reason, sunscreen should be used after application and in the following days. It is suitable for all skin types except sensitive skin.

Source:

• The Effect of Glycolic Acid on the Treatment of Acne in Asian Skin,19 June 2013,Citations: 25

• Glycolic Acid Treatment Increases Type I Collagen mRNA and Hyaluronic Acid Content of Human Skin, 20 December 2001, Citations: 21

Hyaluronic acid (HA) plays a multifaceted role in the regulation of various biological processes such as skin repair, wound healing, tissue regeneration, and anti-inflammatory. Due to its extraordinary biomedical and tissue regeneration potential, HA is an indispensable active ingredient in dermocosmetic products. The improved skin hydration offered by hyaluronic acid is realized through collagen and elastin stimulation and skin surface restoration. Hymagic-4D, a combination of four types of Hyaluronic Acid with different properties, establishes a three-dimensional network by targeting different layers of the skin to retain and add moisture to the skin. In this way, the skin is completely hydrated, which directly increases the elasticity of the skin.

Hyaluronic Acid 3D effect technology;

1. Three-dimensional network structure; Hymagic-4D forms a three-dimensional network to maintain skin moisture. 2. Accurately targeting different layers of skin; When Hymagic-4D is applied to the skin, it targets different layers of skin such as skin surface, cuticle, epidermis and dermis, thus achieving instant three-dimensional moisturizing efficacy, supplying moisture from the outside and retaining moisture.

4 Different Hyaluronic Acids in One;

• Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer forms a protective dense film on the skin surface that reduces water loss, as well as providing 24-hour moisturizing and anti-pollution/anti-UV capabilities.

• Sodium Hyaluronate preserves moisture by retaining water on the skin surface and nourishes the skin surface.

• Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate adheres tightly to the skin surface layer and provides excellent hydration and damaged skin repair.

• Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate quickly penetrates the epidermis and dermis, moisturizes the skin from the inside and restores lost moisture.

3. Three-dimensional moisturizing; The results of dermatological tests show that after 1 hour of application, Hymagic-4D treatment rapidly increases skin hydration by 155.1%, and skin TEWL, or transepidermal water loss, decreases by 32.3%. Hymagic-4D can provide instant three-dimensional moisturizing efficacy to continuously moisturize the skin. It increases skin moisture from the inside and makes the skin smooth and elastic.

Source:

• International journal of biological macromolecules, 120(Pt B) · September 2018.

Caffeine is a powerful antioxidant known for its anti-aging benefits. Caffeine has a vasoconstrictor effect, working to narrow blood vessels, helping to reduce inflammation and swelling. It also tightens and brightens the skin, reduces wrinkles, and visibly reduces cellulite on the body.

Benefits of caffeine:

• Reduces Puffiness: Caffeine is a great topical ingredient for improving puffiness and improving circulation in the skin, which is why it is considered a vital ingredient for under eye puffiness.

• Contains Antioxidants: By using products that contain antioxidants, such as those found in caffeine, you can limit the amount of free radicals your body produces, which helps prevent the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.

• Helps Collagen Production: Caffeine helps collagen and elastin production through the amino acids it contains.

• Reduces Cellulite: Caffeine is the main ingredient in cellulite creams and is formulated with ingredients that increase blood flow to stimulate the removal of fatty acids from the fat layer.

Source:

• Skin pharmacology and physiology 26(1):8-14 · January 2013

• Does Caffeine Really Make a Difference in Skincare Products?. April 16, 2020

Niacinamide is one of the most common and used ingredients in the cosmetic and dermocosmetic sectors that everyone is curious about. What makes this ingredient special? Why are brands and users striving to learn more about it every day? What is niacinamide? Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of active niacin, a vitamin B3 and an essential nutrient. Vitamin B3 deficiency can lead to skin problems. Niacinamide helps prevent Vitamin B3 deficiency. Vitamin B3 also plays an important role in digestion and mental health and supports the functioning of more than 200 enzymes in the body.

Why Is Niacinamide Important?

The topical (skin use) form of niacinamide has a wide range of skin care benefits. These can be listed as follows. The benefits of niacinamide for skin:

• Lipid barrier: Niacinamide helps your skin develop a ceramide (lipid) barrier, which helps the skin retain moisture. This is beneficial for all skin types, especially those with eczema or mature skin.

• Minimizes redness and blemishes: Niacinamide helps relieve redness by reducing inflammation in eczema, acne and other inflammatory skin conditions.

• Minimizes the appearance of pores: Keeps the skin smooth and moisturized, which leads to a natural reduction in pore size over time.

• Regulates the skin's oil level: The benefits of moisture retention aren't just for those with dry skin types. Niacinamide also helps regulate the amount of oil produced by the sebaceous glands and prevents excess sebum production.

• Protects against sun damage: Niacinamide also helps regenerate healthy cells and protects them from damage caused by ultraviolet rays.

• Treats hyperpigmentation: A study found that niacinamide content can help lighten dark spots. Benefits were seen after four weeks. This is due to increased collagen production.

• Minimizes fine lines and wrinkles: Niacinamide helps reduce some signs of sun damage, including fine lines and wrinkles.

• Protects against stress-induced cell damage: Niacinamide helps build skin cells while also protecting against environmental factors such as sunlight, pollution and toxins.

Treats acne: After using Niacinamide, you may see fewer lesions and improved skin texture over time. Niacinamide balances the oil level in the skin by controlling sebum production (oil naturally produced to protect and moisturize the skin), which causes blackheads, pimples and blemishes associated with acne.

•Brightens the skin: Niacinamide reduces skin color (pigmentation) by disrupting the action of one of the key enzymes needed for melanin production, which is produced by the skin in response to harmful sunlight and causes skin darkening and pigmentation.

Source:

• Everything you need to know about using niacinamide on your skin, CBC Life, March 14, 2019.

• Niacinamide, Breast Cancer website sources, Therapeutic Research Faculty, publishers of Natural Medicines, Prescriber's Letter, and Pharmacist's Lette.

• Gehring W, Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin, J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004 Apr;3(2):88-93.

• The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production, J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006 Jun;8(2):96-101.

Panthenol is an active ingredient used in dermatology to protect skin health, moisturize, soften the skin surface and for barrier repair.

The importance of Panthenol (B5) in Skin Care;

• Panthenol is easily absorbed by the skin and shows its effect thanks to its fast penetration feature. • Since panthenol is absorbed into the skin, it also corrects the appearance of the skin by filling wrinkles and cracks with water.

• Thanks to the water-retaining feature of panthenol, it draws moisture into the skin and helps the skin to have a more beautiful and soft appearance.

How do we meet our Vitamin B5 needs?

The best sources of vitamin B5 include fish, meat, whole grains, milk, eggs, avocados, mushrooms, peanuts, and legumes. However, it needs to be consumed in large amounts to benefit the skin. For this reason, the skin's vitamin B5 needs should be partially met with the cosmetic products you use.

What is the use of Vitamin B5?

• It is a powerful moisturizer. It is used for intensive moisturizing of hair, nails and skin. It provides its moisturizing effect by both attracting water from outside to the skin and holding it; it acts like a sponge.

• Increases skin elasticity. Stimulates collagen production and has an anti-aging effect. Supports the formation of fuller and younger skin.

• It plays a role in the development of the skin's protective barrier function by increasing the synthesis of lipids in the outermost layer of the skin.

Source:

• In Vivo Efficacy and Properties of Semisolid Formulations Containing Panthenol, 2019 Feb;18(1):346-354. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12527. Epub 2018 Mar 25

• Panthenol, National library of medicine.

• Design, Optimization and Characterization of Coenzyme Q10- And D-panthenyl Triacetate-Loaded Liposom, 2017 July 7.

Azelaic acid (COOH-(CH2)7 - COOH) is a medium-chain saturated, 9-carbon dicarboxylic acid that has recently been shown to have significant biological activities and some useful practical therapeutic applications. It is a type of acid found naturally in grains such as barley, wheat and rye. It has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a gentler exfoliant than other acids, so it is also suitable for sensitive skin. Azelaic acid, which helps improve skin tone and texture, is especially preferred in the treatment of acne and rosacea. It reduces the presence of bacteria that cause acne and inflammation, and treats redness and uneven skin tone problems that occur on the skin. It also reduces the production of keratin, which can help limit skin cracks.

• Helps to reduce acne problems. Azelaic acid has bacteriostatic and bactericidal properties against various aerobic and anaerobic microorganisms found in acne skin. It is a preferred type of acid for cystic acne. With its anti-inflammatory effect, it helps to lighten the spots over time and make them less visible. It accelerates the equalization of skin tone by increasing cell renewal.

• Treats the reddened appearance on the skin. Thanks to its content, it regulates the normal growth process of cells. It is effective in reversing the reddened appearance that occurs in diseases caused by vascular dilation, such as rosacea.

• It has a peeling effect. With regular use, it provides a smooth appearance by peeling the skin. It reduces the appearance of enlarged pores.

• Reduces signs of aging. Since it contains reactive oxygen species, it evens out skin blemishes and color tone, providing a younger and healthier looking skin appearance.

It aims to deeply cleanse, control sebum and exfoliate, stimulate cellular renewal, prevent acne and also cleanse pores. It also reduces wrinkles by encouraging collagen production and provides a smooth and bright appearance.

Ferulic acid is an active ingredient rich in antioxidants that fights aging, fine lines, wrinkles, discoloration and damaged skin cells. Ferulic acid can be easily absorbed by the skin and is a successful active ingredient when it comes to fighting free radicals and preventing cell damage. Ferulic acid continues to protect against the damage of ultraviolet rays and moisturizes at a high level after skin care. With its antioxidant properties, it accelerates cell repair and lightens photodamages, congenital spots, sun spots, freckles and permanent dark spots. It provides a dazzling flawless skin with its natural whitening effect. It helps prevent signs of aging and the formation of expression lines. Ferulic acid plays a major role in tightening the skin as it contains plenty of Vitamin C due to its own structure. It is very effective in collagen formation and accelerates blood circulation.

Tasmannia lanceolata, commonly known as Tasmanian Pepper or Mountain Pepper, is a shrub native to temperate rainforests and woodlands in south-eastern Australia. Tasmanian Pepper is a type of tree called the Tasmanian lanceolata, which has a delicious pepper-like flavour and aroma with a combination of woody sweetness and herbal tones. It is considered a superfood for the skin as it is rich in antioxidants that revitalize and rejuvenate the skin and treat dry, itchy and inflamed skin. The herbal active ingredient derived from Tasmanian pepper is a water-soluble (and alcohol-soluble) anti-inflammatory active ingredient. It has a soothing effect in cases of sensitivity such as irritation, burning, stinging and itching. It is effective in making the skin more comfortable by showing an immediate effect in skin redness.

Centella Asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola, is native to Indonesia, China, India and Southeast Asia. Perhaps the most important feature of this special plant, which is a rich source of amino acids, flavonoids, phytosterols and fatty acids, as a skin care product is that it helps heal wounds, acne and blemishes. Gotu kola accelerates blood circulation by increasing blood flow in the area of ​​skin struggling with such problems. In this way, the skin, whose oxygenation increases, is both renewed and strengthened. We can summarize its benefits in general as follows:

• The combination of amino acids, fatty acids, beta carotene and phytochemicals in its content accelerates the healing process in the treatment of skin blemishes, acne scars, burns and wounds.

• It strengthens the skin by increasing antioxidants in the problem areas of the skin.

• It helps the skin maintain its elasticity by accelerating blood circulation.

• Thanks to its ability to create collagen fibers and elastin, it delays skin aging, helps reduce wrinkles and cracks, and supports the strengthening of hair and nails.

• It helps to eliminate skin redness and dryness.

• It improves the epidermal barrier function of the skin.

• It helps to eliminate skin irritations.

A microalgae that minimizes the appearance of aging after exposure to UV and blue light. Reduces skin damage caused by natural and artificial blue light sources and improves overall skin appearance. Acts as an anti-aging and sunscreen agent. Protects against skin damage caused by UV and blue light. Stimulates collagen III production and reduces the number of sunburn cells and oxidative stress. Also improves overall skin appearance and provides a beautiful complexion. Contains amino acids, vitamins (B3), algae saccharides and minerals (Zn). Instantly and powerfully reduces skin hyperpigmentation and irritation after exposure to blue light and restores an even skin tone. Used in the formulation of day, sun, after-sun and regenerating night care products.

• In a laboratory environment:

• stimulates total collagen by up to 34% to reduce visible signs of sun-induced ageing

• protects fibroblasts (up to 50%) from UV stress and regenerates fibroblasts functionality (up to 200%) after UV stress

• Reduces the number of sunburned cells by 63% against UVA

• In living things:

• has been proven to be highly effective against hyper-pigmentation:

• Immediate reduction in skin pigment darkening (-30%)

• Rebalance skin's normal pigmentation faster and restore even skin tone

• Reducing blue light-induced skin redness

• Ex vivo:

• Reduces blue light-induced free radicals by up to 35%.

• Reduces blue light-induced carbonylated proteins by up to 61%.

• Increases collagen III production by 29%.

It has a preventive effect on the formation of dynamic wrinkles. It helps skin restructuring by stimulating collagen production. It helps skin moisturizing.

The most commonly used form in dermocosmetic products is retinol. In order to be effective, it first turns into retinal and then into retinoic acid. The reason why all retinoids turn into retinoic acid is that only retinoic acid can bind to the relevant receptors.

It improves the appearance of wrinkles by increasing the amount of GAG and collagen.

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is in the group of retinoids that increase collagen production in the skin. Since it stimulates the skin to produce new cells, it offers powerful anti-aging effects when added to your skin care routine, from reducing the appearance of wrinkles to adding firmness to the skin.

Retinol, which also plays an important role in acne treatment and provides a solution to almost every skin problem; It helps tighten pores, brighten and even out skin tone, reduce the appearance of dark spots and control hyperpigmentation. It also acts as an antioxidant, fighting free radical damage, which is one of the causes of signs of aging on the skin.

Things to Consider When Using:

• Since vitamin A is quite unstable, it may lose its effectiveness as a result of contact with light and air. It should be stored in airtight, dark-colored packaging.

• It should only be applied in the evening as it may cause photosensitivity.

• It should always be used with moisturizers as it can cause dryness and irritation on the skin.

• It should be started by using a low percentage.

• It is contraindicated in pregnancy.

• It is expected to show its effect after an average of 8-12 weeks.

Products containing peeling acids such as alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and poly hydroxy acid (PHA) should be discontinued while using retinol, as they will increase the sensitivity of the skin.

Source:

• The role of topical retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Drugs. 2005;65(8):1061-72.

• Retinoids in aging. Clin Dermatol. Mar-Apr 1996;14(2):207-15.

• Cosmeceuticals: the evidence behind the retinoids. Aesthet Surg J. 2010 Jan;30(1):74-7.

• Bikowski JB. Mechanisms of the comedolytic and anti-inflammatory properties of topical retinoids. J Drugs Dermatol. 2005 Jan-Feb;4(1):41-7.

Acmella oleracea, scientific name Spilanthes oleracea, is a plant of the Asteraceae family (Compositae), native to South America, and grows naturally in all humid parts of the world, especially in Brazil, Peru and tropical Africa. It is common in Australia, India, Malaysia and Sri Lanka, and is widely used in traditional medicine for the treatment of various ailments and disorders.

It has a tightening effect that acts as a natural facelift for the face while improving the appearance of the skin. Its fine yellow-red, almost flaky, flowers contain 1.25% Spilanthol. It is a plant-based alkaloid. It is preferred for its firming and anti-wrinkle properties.

Common blueberries, which can be grown in acidic and organic-rich microclimate areas around the world, are in the Vaccinium genus of the Ericaceae family. It is also known as the "European Blueberry" in some sources. Blueberries are cultivated in thousands of hectares of land in some European countries, especially in the USA. Cultivation in our country began in Rize in the 2000s.

It has been used in the treatment of many diseases because it contains plenty of phenolic compounds. Fruit and leaf extracts are used in skin care due to their antioxidant and anti-aging effects.

It is a good source of anthocyanin. So what is anthocyanin?

Anthocyanins strengthen the skin's defenses against environmental stressors (like damaging UV rays), which helps reduce the onset of wrinkles, dark spots, and other signs of aging.

Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract has also been proven to offer calming properties, making it especially beneficial for problematic or sensitive skin.

Another beneficial feature is that the antioxidant properties of Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract are not only beneficial for the skin but also have protective and stabilizing properties in certain mixtures in the formulation.

Source:

• International Journal of Food Sciences, August 2014, pages 594-601

• Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, March 2014, pages 27-35

• Pharmacognosy Research, July-September 2011, pages 173-177

• Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects 2nd edition, 2011, chapter four

• Biofactors, January 2008, pages 249-266

• G, Göktaş, Determination of phenolic compounds in blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus/Vaccinium corymbosum) by LC-MS/MS, (2013).

Octinoxate, also known as Octyl Methoxycinnamate. It is one of the most widely used oil-soluble chemical sun filters. It is widely preferred in cosmetics because it has an elegant version. It absorbs UVB radiation between 280-320 nm and provides maximum protection at 310 nm.

It does not protect against UVA rays, so it must be supported with other filters. It is also not very stable. When exposed to sunlight, it loses 10% of its SPF protection ability within 35 minutes.

It is permitted to be used up to 10% in the EU and up to 7.5% in the USA. Therefore, it is classified as “Safe as used”.

In vitro studies have shown that it can produce hormonal (estrogen-like) effects. There is no need to panic at this point because the studies have not been conducted on real people and under real-life conditions. Therefore, it is also unnecessary to avoid Octinoxate completely. However, if you are pregnant or a child under 2 years old, you can choose a physical (zinc oxide/titanium dioxide) or new generation filter sunscreen to be on the super safe side. :)

Source:

• Couteau, C., et al. "Study of the efficacy of 18 sun filters authorized in European Union tested in vitro." Die Pharmazie-An International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 62.6 (2007): 449-452.

• Couteau, Céline, et al. "Study of the photostability of 18 sunscreens in creams by measuring the SPF in vitro." Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis 44.1 (2007): 270-273.

• Chatelain, Eric, and Bernard Gabard. "Photostabilization of Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), a New UV Broadband Filter." Photochemistry and Photobiology 74.3 (2001): 401-406.

• Janjua, Nadeem Rezaq, et al. "Systemic absorption of the sunscreens benzophenone-3, octyl-methoxycinnamate, and 3-(4-methyl-benzylidene) camphor after whole-body topical application and reproductive hormone levels in humans." Journal of Investigative Dermatology 123.1 (2004): 57-61.

• Schlumpf, Margret, et al. "In vitro and in vivo estrogenicity of UV screens." Environmental health perspectives 109.3 (2001): 239.

Uvinul A Plus, also known as DHHB, is a new generation chemical sunscreen agent designed for high UVA protection and high photostability. It can be used up to 10% worldwide except in the USA and Canada.

It has the same effect as Avobenzone. However, the stability of DHHB in the sun is much better than Avobenzone, because Avobenzone's ability to absorb ultraviolet radiation will decrease rapidly in the sun. Therefore, in order to reduce the loss of Avobenzone, you need to add another UV absorber as a light stabilizer to the formula. DHHB does not need this.

Source:

• https://haihangchem.com/products/diethylamino-hydroxybenzoyl-hexyl-benzoate-cas-302776-68-7/?gclid=CjwKCAjwtIaVBhBkEiwAsr7-c8P_qfQyp2HD6xPCpi11synM6PsCSwatvvPvR9u1oBk4BDayN9y9mhoCsCY QAvD_BwE

• https://www.cosdna.com/eng/981df410268.html

• https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/diethylamino-hydroxybenzoyl-hexyl-benzoate

• https://cosmetics.specialchem.com/product/i-basf-uvinul-a-plus-granular

It is an oil-soluble chemical sunscreen agent that protects the skin in the UVB and slightly in the UVA II range, reaching a peak absorption of 304 nm. Its protection is not strong enough on its own, but it is quite photostable (loses 10% of its SPF protection in 95 minutes). and is often used to stabilize other photo-labile UV filters such as Avobenzone.

It is also frequently used to increase the waterproofness of products.

The safety profile of octocrylene is generally quite good, but a review study in Contact Dermatitis reported "an increase in the number of patients with photocontact allergy to octocrylene." Adults who are sensitive to ketoprofen and children with sensitive skin are more likely to be affected, so if you have a young child, it is worth taking care when using sunscreens containing octocrylene.

Source:

• Couteau, C., et al. "Study of the efficacy of 18 sun filters authorized in European Union tested in vitro." Die Pharmazie-An International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 62.6 (2007): 449-452.

• Couteau, Céline, et al. "Study of the photostability of 18 sunscreens in creams by measuring the SPF in vitro." Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis 44.1 (2007): 270-273.

• Scalia, Santo, and Matteo Mezzena. "Incorporation in lipid microparticles of the UVA filter, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane combined with the UVB filter, octocrylene: effect on photostability." AAPS PharmSciTech 10.2 (2009): 384-390.

• de Groot, Anton C., and David W. Roberts. "Contact and photocontact allergy to octocrylene: a review." Contact dermatitis 70.4 (2014): 193-204.

It is an inorganic/physical sunscreen filter. A 2016 study suggests that inorganic sunscreen filters work, like chemical filters, mostly by absorption and only a little reflection (they reflect light in the visible spectrum, but absorb mostly in the UV spectrum).

In addition to its sunscreen properties, it is also used as a thickener, opacifier and pigment donor in cosmetics.

It provides nice broad spectrum coverage and is quite stable. Its protection is very good between 290-350 nm (UVB and UVA II range) and less good between 350-400 nm (UVA I). Therefore, it would be better to choose filters with high UVA I protection in sunscreens containing titanium dioxide. Titanium Dioxide in normal molecular size also has an excellent safety profile, is non-irritating and does not pose any health problems.

The disadvantage of Titanium Dioxide is that its cosmetic version is not elegant. Sunscreens containing Titanium Dioxide are often difficult to spread on the skin and leave an unpleasant whitish color. The best solution the cosmetic industry has found so far for this situation is to use nanoparticles. Small nano-sized particles both improve spreadability and greatly reduce the whitish tone, but unfortunately it has been thought that they can also bring new health problems.

According to research, the main concern with nanoparticles is that they are too small and are absorbed into the skin more than we would like (ideally, sunscreen should stay on the surface of the skin). Once absorbed, they can form unwanted complexes with proteins and promote the formation of nasty free radicals, but a 2009 article on the safety of nanoparticles states that "to date, in vivo and in vitro studies have not demonstrated percutaneous penetration of nano-sized particles in titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sunscreens." So, so far, studies have shown that nanoparticle sunscreens stay where they are supposed to on the skin's surface.

Also, even when using Titanium dioxide nanoparticles, the molecular size of the substance used to coat the nanoparticles is large enough to prevent them from penetrating beyond the uppermost layers of the skin. This means that you get the sun protection that Titanium dioxide provides without the risk of damaging your skin or body. The coating process improves application, increases sun protection, and prevents Titanium dioxide from interacting with other ingredients in the presence of sunlight, thus increasing its stability.

Source:

• Newman, Marissa D., Mira Stotland, and Jeffrey I. Ellis. "The safety of nanosized particles in titanium dioxide–and zinc oxide–based sunscreens." Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 61.4 (2009): 685-692.

• Monteiro-Riviere, NA, et al. "Safety evaluation of sunscreen formulations containing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in UVB sunburned skin: an in vitro and in vivo study." Toxicological Sciences (2011): kfr148.

• Cole, Curtis, Thomas Shyr, and Hao Ou‐Yang. "Metal oxide sunscreens protect skin by absorption, not by reflection or scattering." Photodermatology, photoimmunology & photomedicine 32.1 (2016): 5-10.

• Smijs, Threes G., and Stanislav Pavel. "Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreens: focus on their safety and effectiveness." Nanotechnol Sci Appl 4.1 (2011): 95-112.

•https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredients/ingredient-titanium-dioxide.html?q=Titanium%20Dioxide&fdid=ingredients

It is an inorganic/physical sunscreen filter. It provides almost equal protection against UVB, UVA II and UVA I and is considered the broadest spectrum sunscreen filter available today. It is permitted to be used in sunscreens in concentrations of up to 25%.

It is also very stable and non-irritating. So much so that Zinc Oxide also counts as a skin protectant and anti-irritant. It is also often used to treat skin irritations such as diaper rash.

As for the downsides, the Zinc Oxide version is also not as cosmetically elegant. According to a 2000 research paper by Dr. Pinnell, it leaves an unpleasant whitish cast on the skin, although it is slightly less white than TiO2. This is where nanoparticles come into play. A study published in Investigative Dermatology found that zinc oxide nanoparticles do not penetrate the skin or damage the skin at the cellular level, even with repeated applications. Additional studies have found that nano-sized zinc oxide is not as irritating as non-nano zinc oxide.

You can find more information about nanoparticles under the title Titanium dioxide J

Zinc oxide is sometimes used in makeup to add opacity to products such as foundation, especially powder-based makeup.

Source:

• Pinnell, Sheldon R., et al. "Microfine zinc oxide is a superior sunscreen ingredient to microfine titanium dioxide." Dermatologic surgery 26.4 (2000): 309-314.

• Newman, Marissa D., Mira Stotland, and Jeffrey I. Ellis. "The safety of nanosized particles in titanium dioxide–and zinc oxide–based sunscreens." Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 61.4 (2009): 685-692.

• Monteiro-Riviere, NA, et al. "Safety evaluation of sunscreen formulations containing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in UVB sunburned skin: an in vitro and in vivo study." Toxicological Sciences (2011): kfr148.

• Cole, Curtis, Thomas Shyr, and Hao Ou‐Yang. "Metal oxide sunscreens protect skin by absorption, not by reflection or scattering." Photodermatology, photoimmunology & photomedicine 32.1 (2016): 5-10.

• Smijs, Threes G., and Stanislav Pavel. "Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreens: focus on their safety and effectiveness." Nanotechnol Sci Appl 4.1 (2011): 95-112.

• Journal of Investigative Dermatology, February 2019, pages 277-278

• Nanomaterials, March 2017, pages 27-31

• Particle and Fiber Toxicology, August 2016, page 44

• International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 2014, pages 273-283

• Indian Journal of Dermatology, September-October 2012, pages 335-342

• Archives of Toxicology, July 2012, pages 1063-1075

• Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, & Photomedicine, April 2011, pages 58-67

• American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, December 2010, pages 413-421

• https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/zinc-oxide-0?gclid=CjwKCAjw3_KIBhA2EiwAaAAlipF1YpJBfZrmUbDnK6jm68_2f-GfsdZ770fVI15BFzZJtiFcCJjAWxoC3SkQAvD_BwE

Known as shea butter, it is obtained from the shea tree and is used as an emollient in cosmetics.

Shea butter not only has a rich texture, it is also a rich source of antioxidants including quercetin, epicatechin gallate, gallocatechin, epigallocatechin; vitamins A, E, and F, as well as skin-regenerating fatty acids (stearic and linoleic). It is one of the ingredients we want to see in products designed to heal dry skin.

Source:

• Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, June 2011, pages 45-55

• Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, October 2003, pages 6,268-6,273

• Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, February 2009, page S41

Vitamin C has three proven amazing effects: antioxidant, collagen booster and skin brightener. But the problem is that it is so unstable that it oxidises and turns brown, quickly becoming ineffective (after a few months).

For this reason, manufacturers have begun to produce and test derivative forms of vitamin C as an alternative to pure vitamin C. Here we will examine Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, also known as 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate.

It is an "etherified derivative of ascorbic acid" consisting of vitamin C and an ethyl group attached to the third carbon position. This makes vitamin C very stable and soluble in both water and oil.

Because of the slower conversion to pure vitamin C, 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid is considered a more tolerable form of vitamin C. The pH range required for optimum stability is higher than that required by ascorbic acid for ideal stability, making EAC an attractive alternative if your skin cannot tolerate higher concentrations (10% and above) of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) products.

Usage levels of EAC in skin care are between 0.5-5%. Levels above 5% can also be used depending on the desired benefit. Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating in human skin samples.

However, for a Vitamin C derivative to work, it is not enough that it is only stable, it also needs to be absorbed into the skin and converted there into pure Vitamin C. Regarding conversion, we can only mention a claim from the manufacturers that EAC metabolizes into pure ascorbic acid in the skin, but according to some tests that show that it can enter the skin, it has been shown to be better than another Vitamin C derivative, Ascorbyl Glucoside.

It can fade hyperpigmentation and offers anti-aging benefits on par with pure vitamin C.

EAC has been suggested to have both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects and is claimed to be able to increase collagen production in the skin. EAC’s strong point is skin brightening. Along with manufacturer claims, there is also clinical in-vivo data showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone and whiten the skin.

Source:

• Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Volume 11 (4) – Dec 1, 2012, Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives

• Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2021, pages 151–169

• Life, May 2021, pages 1–13

• International Journal of Pharmaceutics, December 2019, pages 1–9

• Journal of Cosmetic Science, July-August 2018, pages 233–243

• AAPS PharmSciTech, June 2016, pages 767–777

It is a super common, safe, effective and inexpensive molecule that has been used for over 50 years.

It is a natural moisturizer that is also found in our skin. It is not just a simple moisturizer, it is much more: it keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps regenerate the barrier.

A 2005 study showed that glycerin levels correlate with skin hydration levels, so more glycerin means better moisturized skin.

• It ensures that the adhesive substance between skin cells is neither too diluted nor too concentrated (this is called osmoregulation)

• Helps maintain the healthy state of cell membranes and intracellular lipids (keeps lipids in a beautiful liquid crystalline state that is optimal for barrier function)

• It can normalize skin shedding in very dry skin.

• Protects against skin irritation (such as washing your face too much and/or too aggressively)

It is also effective at as little as 3%, although it provides even more benefits at higher concentrations of up to 20-40%. Around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness point. It is possible to make this amount into a relatively light, non-sticky and not too heavy formula (yes, glycerin is sticky and it is really hard to make a high % into a cosmetically elegant formula) but 10% also shows all the wonderful therapeutic effects.

100% pure glycerin is also not good for the skin. Too much glycerin (and humectants in general) can draw water from the lower layers of the skin. This is a problem because once the water gets into the upper layers, some of it will evaporate. This is called trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Too much TEWL and the skin becomes dry.

This has been confirmed by a study: skin treated with 99.7% glycerin for 5 days showed that the SC (outermost layer of the skin) was not visibly different from the untreated control after treatment. The same study also examined skin treated with 25% glycerin lotion, where the SC had a visibly different, expanded – in other words, more moist – appearance.

Bottom line: glycerin is much more than just a moisturizer. It’s an under-appreciated superstar that deserves more attention.

Source:

• Leslie Baumann, MD, Cosmetic Dermatology, 2nd edition, Glycerin- pages 275

• The Journal of investigative dermatology., 2005 Aug;125(2):288-93., Is endogenous glycerol a determinant of stratum corneum hydration in humans?

• Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function, Marie Loden, Howard I. Maibach, chapter 20: Glycerol — Just a Moisturizer? Biological and Biophysical Effects